Thailand – The Beaches
No trip to South East Asia is complete without a trip to Thailand's idyllic island utopias. An abundance of choice prevails, and we selected the Gulf of Thailand where the islands of Koh Tao, Koh Samui and Koh Phangnan are located.
No trip to South East Asia is complete without a trip to Thailand's idyllic island utopias. An abundance of choice prevails, and we selected the Gulf of Thailand where the islands of Koh Tao, Koh Samui and Koh Phangnan are located. Tao is the smallest and most sedate of the three, only becoming popular in the last few years. Whilst a captivating setting to relax and allow the days to drift away, the main reason to visit is under the water. Dive sites are numerous and the coral and aquatic life colourfully spectacular.
%%Could not get body element policy for VersionedContentId(1.12002.UNDEFINED)Samui is the largest island and was one of the original destinations to become quickly beloved of the first wave of backpackers in the '60s and '70s. Like other favourites such as Goa in India and Bali in Indonesia, Samui quickly established the double-edged reputation of 'Paradise on Earth', and Western devotees of sunshine, palm trees, pristine beaches and relaxed atmospheres, have turned Samui into something unrecognisable from itself before the hordes arrived.
%%Could not get body element policy for VersionedContentId(1.12001.UNDEFINED)Luxury hotel complexes now line the beach fronts where previously clusters of huts had provided dirt-cheap accommodation, and before that there was serene seclusion. Increasingly, the backpacker-style guesthouses are being eaten up by the multinationals as a combined effort from government and business seeks out the high-end tourist dollar. This concerted drive is a theme throughout South East Asia.
%%Could not get body element policy for VersionedContentId(1.12000.UNDEFINED)Samui is home to a significant British expat community: most leaving it all behind for the opportunity to make a new life in the sun; some retiring in a place they have come to know and love over the years; and many simply arriving with the intention of passing through and then never leaving. A 'home from home' has successfully been created; the Costa del Sol of the Tropics. An abundance of British pubs provide such staples as bitter on tap, homemade pies and giant sports screens - these being just about enough to make me feel at home.
It is Phangnan, however, that has taken over as the spot where the action is. Home to Hat Rin beach, where the world famous Full Moon parties are held every month, it entices a younger, more hedonistic crowd than its neighbours. Industry on the island mainly caters to it's thriving nightlife, the centre of which being the beach area. Every night, thousands of people stagger from one beach bar to another: some enticing customers with fire shows; others with party games; others with blaring sound systems. On many nights, parties will be occurring at other locations across the island such as jungle clearings and guesthouses, most with accompanying levels of debauchery.
One prominent feature on the island, a good reason it is unlikely to host many hotel complexes in the near furture, is the Thai Mafia. Practically all bars and guesthouses have to pay their dues and the more big business that takes over, the more difficult this is to enforce. The Mafia apparently exerts enough influence, has its members sufficiently placed within the local authorities and greases enough wheels to ensure that this won't happen. The police also extract for their services, although there is more choice as to whether this particular protection money is paid. Those who don't pay can expect a lack-lustre response should they require the services of the local constabulary.
The visible police presence is pathetically small, and the Mafia are effectively given free reign. This means that, despite the money that tourists bring in, they are afforded very little protection. Violence between Thais and Westerners is not uncommon; the police never preventing the inevitable conclusion of the Westerners becoming heavily outnumbered and usually taking a beating.
One Israeli man was stabbed to death on the beach by five Thais whilst we were on the island. His crime? Being rude. What he failed to heed was one of the most important cultural ideals in Asia: the concept of 'face'. Losing face is considered one of the worst things that can happen to a person and usually entails a humiliation, insult or simply being shown to be in the wrong.
Particularly bad is when this occurs in public. Endeavours to prevent this from occuring, or 'saving face', mean that a lot of emotions are repressed, and Thais are especially highly strung as a result. Actual or perceived loss of face is the cause of the majority of serious arguments between Thais and foreigners. Thais are very nationalistic, and will fight on each other's behalf if they suspect the slightest offense.
The other unwholesome yet common national characteristc is dishonesty - Thais are very money-orientated to the point that principles are often abandoned in it's acquisition, and many have turned conning foreigners into an art form.
You shouldn't allow this to put you off, however. No nationality is free from its unsavoury characteristics. The majority of Thais are a pleasant, happy-go-lucky type of people. The young are respectful of their elders and well brought up and the old are valued members of society. Most have a smile and welcoming word for outsiders and are genuinely appreciative that they have chosen to visit their country.
Thailand is a beautiful country that is equipped and practised at catering to Western desires. A thriving economy has improved and strengthened existing infrastructures such as transport and health, which makes travel here relatively easy. Few home comforts will prove impossible to find, and every type of foreign destination experience is available, from the penny-pinching backpacker to the millionaire's club. Adventure junkie, party animal, culture vulture or beach bum - Thailand has something for everyone.
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Weather for Grantham
Friday 03 September 2010
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